After years of avoiding this place (my cultural heritage insists on authentic dim sum establishments), I finally relinquished and decided to take Ping Pong up on their Super 8 lunchtime offering.
It was a hot summer’s day and knowing how we British love to eat out when it’s oh so slightly warmer, we arrived at Ping Pong early to ensure that we got a table. We were given a choice of sitting at some normal tables or to be seated at what seemed to me like a pair of foot stools and a coffee table. I know I’m not the tallest of people around, but I am neither a hobbit or a person keen to relive their childhood tea parties. We made the correct choice of the adult seating section.
Although it was good value for money (8 food offerings for £8), my fear of western palette tainted dim sum was unfortunately realized. The starter of vegetable broth was a little watery and lacking in punch or flavour, it felt like it was missing more than a couple of ingredients. The second course of honeyed chilli chicken rice pot was actually the highlight of the Super 8 menu, I really enjoyed it. It was shame that there was so little of it, but I suppose as part of an 8 dish menu, the sizing of it was probably right. And then we got to the hallowed grounds of Chinese dim sum cuisine… steamed dumplings.
In my experience a really good dim sum restaurant usually has a specialized dim sum chef heading the kitchen. All the steamed dumplings and dishes are freshly prepared each day and cooked to order and each dumpling is perfectly sized and seasoned for consumption. I’m not sure what the process is at Ping Pong, but the dumplings felt amateurish to be honest. And this is where I feel that the dishes have been designed to cater for the western palette. Where traditional sui mai are made from prawn and pork, this was replaced with crumbly chicken. Spinach and mushroom dumplings? Where in China did they come from?? It just didn’t feel right to me.
And all this was accompanied by some Chinese tea served in what looked like my brother’s science experiment on creating crystal structures, 22 years ago. I believe that Chinese tea should come in a badly spouted teapot filled with Chinese leaves and poured in to small Chinese cups, not a tiny vase with a teabag suspended like a bad trapeze act.
Overall Ping Pong was as I expected. There’s a market for dim sum restaurants in busy cities, but it needs to maintain that essence in the quality of the food rather than quality of the presentation. Style over substance is never a winning formula in Chinese cuisine, but Ping Pong seems to be making a success out of it. Though I doubt it’ll have a huge impact on the traditional Chinese dim sum industry.

